Shipping Unpacking/Placement Guide
Stage: Unboxing
Plant Care Guide
Your Plants Arrived.
Now Build Something
worth watching grow.
A biologically grounded guide to unpacking, positioning, planting, and sustaining aquatic plants — from arrival to a thriving ecosystem. No guesswork, no vague advice.
2–4h
Plant within arrival
6–8h
Daily lighting window
25%
Weekly water change
2–4w
Full establishment time
AQUATIC EDEN — PLANT MENTOR
● Active Guidance
Unpacking Your Plants
Transit stress is real. The first 30 minutes after opening the box set the tone for the next 4 weeks.
Transit Stress Note. Plants spend 12–72 hours in darkness, elevated ethylene gas, and fluctuating temperatures during shipping. Expect some yellowing or soft leaves on arrival — this is normal and not a sign of poor quality. The root system and growing tips are what matter most.
Open packaging immediately. Do not leave plants sealed in bags or boxes. Ethylene gas buildup accelerates cell decay within hours of arrival.
If you cannot plant within 2 hours, float unpotted plants in a shallow dish of dechlorinated water in indirect light.
Rinse under lukewarm dechlorinated water. Use water between 20–24°C. Cold tap water shocks already-stressed root tissue. Chlorine at even low concentrations damages delicate root hairs.
Run water gently over leaves and roots for 60 seconds. You are removing fertiliser residue, packing material, and surface pathogens.
Remove damaged or decaying tissue. Yellow leaves, brown mushy stems, and blackened root tips all release ammonia as they break down. Removing them now protects your tank's nitrogen cycle and your other livestock.
Use clean scissors. Do not pull leaves off — tearing creates open wounds at the stem that invite bacterial infection.
Trim roots to 2–3 cm if brown or soft. Healthy roots are white or cream coloured. Brown root tips indicate transit damage, not root death — trim back to where you see white tissue and new growth will follow within 7–14 days.
Crypts and Swords are exceptions. Their root systems are extensive and should be kept largely intact, trimming only visibly rotted sections.
Remove wool or rockwool from tissue-culture plants. Tissue-culture plants (TC plants) arrive sterile and pest-free, but their growth medium is inert. Remove all gel or wool medium from roots before planting — it compresses in substrate and blocks oxygen exchange, causing root rot.
Rinse TC plants 3–4 times to remove all gel traces. The small plantlets are fragile — work under water in a bowl for best control.
Inspect for pests and snails before any plant enters your tank. Even plants from reputable sources pass through distribution chains. Check the undersides of leaves for snail eggs (clear jelly clusters) and the base of stems for hitchhiker organisms.
Optional: a 5-minute diluted alum dip (1 tablespoon per litre) kills most soft-bodied pests without harming plant tissue. Rinse thoroughly afterwards.
Plant within 2–4 hours of unpacking. The longer a plant sits out of substrate or water, the more it draws on root-stored energy reserves. Every hour out of its growing medium is an hour of recovery debt it pays later.
Quarantine protocol. If you run shrimp tanks or a display system you care about, a 7-day quarantine in a separate container is worth the effort. You are screening for hydra, planaria, assassin snails, and parasitic algae spores — none of which survive a thorough quarantine with alum treatment.
Water Parameters — The Foundation
Get these right before you plant anything. Correcting parameters after planting causes additional stress cycles.
6.5–7.5
Target pH
22–26°C
Temperature
3–8 dKH
Carbonate Hardness
4–12 dGH
General Hardness
<0.25 ppm
Ammonia
0 ppm
Nitrite
pH and KH work together — you cannot manage one without the other.
pH measures hydrogen ion concentration. KH (carbonate hardness) measures your water's buffering capacity, meaning its ability to resist pH swings. Low KH water (under 2 dKH) is dangerously unstable — even small additions of acid (CO₂, humic acids from driftwood, fish waste) cause rapid pH crashes that stress or kill livestock overnight.
- Most stem plants and mosses: pH 6.5–7.2 is the sweet spot. Slightly acidic water improves iron and micronutrient uptake.
- Cryptocoryne species: Tolerate pH 5.5–7.5 but establish fastest at pH 6.8–7.0. Avoid sudden changes — Crypts melt in response to parameter swings, not just poor conditions.
- Vallisneria: Prefers harder, more alkaline water (pH 7.0–8.0, KH 6–10). It performs poorly in soft acidic setups designed for Caridina shrimp.
- CO₂ injection lowers pH: Injecting CO₂ into a tank with KH of 3–5 drops pH by approximately 1 unit during photoperiod. This is predictable and controlled. Add a pH monitor if you are injecting CO₂.
- Raising KH safely: Use sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) at 1 teaspoon per 80 litres to raise KH by approximately 1 dKH. Always dissolve fully before adding to the tank.
GH tells plants what minerals are available in the water column.
General hardness (GH) measures the concentration of calcium (Ca²⁺) and magnesium (Mg²⁺) ions. These are not decorative parameters — calcium drives cell wall formation in plants, and magnesium is the central atom in every chlorophyll molecule. Plants in soft water (GH under 3) show yellowing and poor structural growth even with fertiliser supplementation, because liquid fertiliser cannot compensate for water-column mineral deficiency efficiently.
- Calcium to magnesium ratio: Target a 3:1 or 4:1 Ca:Mg ratio in the water column. Imbalance causes antagonistic uptake interference, where excess magnesium blocks calcium absorption.
- RO water users: Remineralise with a GH booster before use. RO water at 0 TDS has no buffering or mineral content — planting directly into it guarantees deficiency within 2 weeks.
- Tap water in most Australian cities: Sydney GH averages 3–6 dGH, Melbourne 2–4 dGH, Brisbane 6–9 dGH. Test your own supply — municipal water varies seasonally.
- Shrimp tanks: Neocaridina need GH 6–8. Caridina (Crystal, Taiwan Bee) need GH 4–6 with low TDS (100–150 ppm). Plant selection in shrimp tanks must respect these parameters.
CO₂ is the single largest variable in planted tank performance.
Carbon dioxide drives photosynthesis. In a sealed aquarium with livestock and no injection, CO₂ drops to 2–5 ppm during daylight hours — a fraction of what plants consume at full metabolic rate. Pressurised CO₂ systems maintain 20–35 ppm throughout the photoperiod, and the difference in growth rate, colour, and structural density is not subtle.
- Drop checker target: Lime-green colour indicates approximately 30 ppm CO₂. Yellow means overdose risk (stress to livestock). Blue means deficiency and algae risk.
- Pressurised systems (recommended): A dual-stage regulator with solenoid timer, diffuser, and bubble counter gives precise control. Run CO₂ 1 hour before lights on, shut off 1 hour before lights off. This prevents CO₂ buildup overnight when plants are not consuming it.
- Liquid carbon (glutaraldehyde-based): A partial substitute. Provides mild algae suppression and a low-level carbon boost, but does not replace pressurised CO₂ for demanding plants. Overdosing kills mosses, liverworts, and livestock. Dose at 50% of the label recommendation to start.
- Low-tech alternative: Choose plants with genuinely low CO₂ requirements — Anubias, Java Fern, Bolbitis, most Crypts, and all mosses grow well without injection in moderate lighting.
Plants need macronutrients and micronutrients. They are not the same thing.
Macronutrients — nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) — drive bulk growth. Micronutrients — iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), boron (B), and others — drive metabolic function at the cellular level. Most bottled fertilisers cover micros adequately. Macros often run short in lightly stocked, heavily planted tanks where fish waste does not provide sufficient N and P.
- Estimative Index (EI) dosing: A high-dosing method that saturates the water column with nutrients above plant demand, then resets with a 50% water change weekly. Takes the guesswork out of deficiency identification.
- Lean dosing (PPS-Pro): Doses exactly what plants consume each day. Requires more monitoring but produces cleaner water and less algae in systems where the bioload is well understood.
- Root tabs: Essential for heavy root-feeders like Amazon Swords, Vallisneria, and large Crypts. Place root tabs 5–8 cm from the plant base, 3–5 cm below the substrate surface. Replace every 3–4 months.
- Iron deficiency: Shows as yellowing of new leaves (interveinal chlorosis) while old leaves remain green. Dose chelated iron (EDTA or DTPA forms) directly. DTPA is more stable in alkaline water above pH 7.
- Potassium deficiency: Shows as pinhole damage and edge browning on mature leaves. Dose potassium sulphate or a dedicated K supplement separate from your all-in-one fertiliser.
Plant Positioning & Layout
Zone your tank by height, then by growth rate. Fast growers placed behind slow growers block them from light within weeks.
Foreground — Carpet Zone
Height2–8 cm
ExamplesHemianthus callitrichoides (HC), Eleocharis acicularis, Glossostigma, Marsilea hirsuta
Light needHigh — foreground plants are furthest from the light source and need strong intensity to spread laterally
CO₂ req.HC and Glossostigma require pressurised CO₂. Marsilea and hairgrass work in low-tech setups.
MethodPlant in small portions (1 cm² TC plugs or single stem clusters) at 1–2 cm spacing. Dense planting accelerates carpeting by 2–3 weeks.
Foreground
Midground — Focal Zone
Height8–25 cm
ExamplesCryptocoryne wendtii, Staurogyne repens, Bucephalandra, Bolbitis heudelotii
RoleCreates the visual eye line and mid-depth structure. Use odd numbers (3, 5, 7 plants) for natural groupings.
Spacing5–8 cm between individuals for slow growers. Staurogyne repens can be planted at 3–4 cm for a denser carpet-to-mid transition.
NoteBucephalandra and Bolbitis are rhizome plants — tie to hardscape, never bury the rhizome.
Midground
Background — Structure Zone
Height25 cm+
ExamplesVallisneria spiralis, Hygrophila polysperma, Rotala rotundifolia, Ludwigia palustris, Bacopa monnieri
RoleProvides depth illusion, filters light, and drives significant nutrient uptake. Fast-growing background plants are your biological filtration partners.
Trim scheduleTrim tops every 2–3 weeks. Topped stem plants bush out, producing denser growth. Remove and replant the trimmed tops directly.
DensityGroup 5–10 stems per bunch. Individual stems look sparse for weeks; groups create immediate visual mass.
Background
Floating Plants — Surface Zone
ExamplesSalvinia natans, Limnobium laevigatum (Frogbit), Pistia stratiotes, Phyllanthus fluitans
BenefitsSignificant nitrate and ammonia uptake, surface movement reduction for shrimp comfort, shade for low-light plants underneath
CoverageCap at 30–40% of surface. Beyond this, CO₂ surface exchange drops and submerged plants are light-deprived.
Flow noteStrong surface agitation shreds floating plants and prevents them spreading. Reduce surface flow or use a spray bar aimed below the waterline.
FeedingFeed with a dilute liquid fertiliser every 2 weeks — roots absorb directly from the water column.
Floating
Design principle. Build your layout with the Golden Ratio in mind. Place your focal point at 60–65% across the tank width, not the centre. The human eye reads diagonal flow naturally — a scape that leads the eye from foreground corner to background opposite corner retains interest longer than a symmetrical layout.
Planting Methods
Each plant category has a biological reason for how it roots. Work with that biology, not against it.
Root-Fed Plants — Swords, Crypts, Vallisneria
These species feed primarily through their root system. Substrate quality directly controls their long-term performance.
Substrate depth matters. A minimum of 6–8 cm of substrate depth is required for large Swords and Crypts. Their root systems extend 15–25 cm in mature specimens. Shallow substrate stunts growth and causes repeated uprooting.
Layered substrates (nutrient-rich base capped with inert substrate) outperform uniform substrates over a 12-month window. Aquasoil bases like ADA Amazonia provide buffering and long-term nutrient supply.
Dig a hole wider than the root ball. Compressing roots into a tight hole causes them to circle and eventually strangle themselves. Spread roots downward and outward naturally.
For large Amazon Swords, create a depression 8–10 cm wide and 5–6 cm deep. Settle roots in and backfill, then press substrate gently from outside inward — not from above.
Crown position is critical. The crown — where the leaf rosette meets the root system — must sit exactly at the substrate surface. Buried crowns rot within 2–3 weeks. Exposed crowns dry out and the plant cannot anchor. This is the most common planting mistake.
Add root tabs at planting time. Place one root tab 5 cm from the plant base, at a 45-degree angle pushed 4 cm below substrate. Crypts and Swords can absorb the nutrients immediately from a softening tab near their root zone.
Seachem Flourish Tabs, Pisces Root Tabs, or DIY osmocote tabs all work well. Replace every 3–4 months as the controlled-release coating breaks down.
Expect transplant melt in Crypts. Cryptocoryne species almost always melt their existing leaves after being moved. This is a controlled biological response to parameter change — the plant redirects all resources to root establishment before re-growing above-substrate. Leave the roots in place and do not replant. New leaves emerge within 2–4 weeks.
Rhizome Plants — Anubias, Java Fern, Bucephalandra
The rhizome is the plant's brain and primary growth centre. Burying it kills the plant within days.
Never bury the rhizome. The rhizome (the thick horizontal stem connecting leaves and roots) requires oxygenated water contact to function. Substrate suffocates it. A buried rhizome turns black and soft within 5–10 days — often misread as a water quality problem when it is purely a planting error.
If you accidentally bury a rhizome and catch it early (within 3 days), remove it, rinse it, trim any soft sections back to firm green tissue, and remount it correctly. It will often recover.
Attach to driftwood or rock with thread or gel. Use black cotton thread, fishing line, or superglue gel (cyanoacrylate — aquarium safe when cured). Apply gel to the bottom of the rhizome, press firmly to the surface, and hold for 30 seconds. The plant grips naturally within 2–3 weeks.
Cotton thread biodegrades in 4–6 weeks — exactly the time roots need to begin gripping the surface themselves. No need to remove it.
Position for indirect light. Anubias and Java Fern are adapted to dim, filtered light conditions under forest canopy. In aquariums, high direct light causes BBA (black beard algae) colonisation specifically on their slow-growing leaves. Position under the shade of floating plants or in the shadow cast by taller background plants.
Growth rate expectations. Anubias nana produces approximately one new leaf every 3–4 weeks under good conditions. Do not mistake this for distress. These are genuinely slow-growing plants and their stability is a feature — they will live for 10+ years in a well-maintained tank.
Bucephalandra grows even more slowly but produces extraordinary colour variation under high light. New leaves often emerge bronze or red before maturing to green.
Stem Plants — Rotala, Ludwigia, Hygrophila, Bacopa
Stem plants are the workhorses of planted tanks. Fast-growing, nutrient-hungry, and highly responsive to light and CO₂.
Strip lower leaves before planting. Remove leaves from the bottom 3–4 cm of each stem. Buried leaves decay and create ammonia pockets in the substrate. The bare stem develops root nodes at leaf-node sites underground.
Use tweezers to grip and slide leaves downward off the stem cleanly. Do not pull at angles — this damages the stem tissue at the node.
Plant in tight groups, not singles. A group of 7–10 stems planted 1–1.5 cm apart creates the visual density of a full plant within 2–3 weeks. Single stems look sparse for a month and are more vulnerable to uprooting by fish and current.
Use aquascaping tweezers (straight or curved depending on tank depth). Push stem firmly 2–3 cm below the substrate surface. For fine-particle substrates, a planting stick helps create a channel first.
Trim and replant tops to control height. Stem plants grow toward the light and elongate upward. When the top reaches the waterline, cut the top 10–12 cm off and replant it as a new stem group directly in front of the original. Over several trim cycles you create a layered, dense stand.
Watch for upward rotation. Rotala and some Ludwigia species rotate their leaf pairs toward the light source. This is normal phototropic behaviour. If stems are leaning heavily toward one side, redistribute your light source or increase overall intensity.
Heavy feeders — dose accordingly. Fast-growing stem plants consume significant nitrate, phosphate, and potassium. In a heavily planted tank with low fish load, water column nutrient levels drop fast. Test weekly during the first month and adjust your fertiliser schedule based on growth rate, not a fixed calendar dosing regime.
Mosses & Liverworts — Java Moss, Fissidens, Riccia, Pellia
No true root system — mosses absorb all nutrients directly through their leaf surface. Attachment method controls their final form.
Thin layers, not thick clumps. A 1–2 cm layer of moss attached to a surface grows forward and outward cleanly. A thick 4–5 cm clump traps detritus inside, starves the interior sections of light, and develops dead brown patches within weeks.
Spread moss thinly and evenly before attaching. You are creating a growing surface, not packing a gap.
Attach with thread, mesh, or superglue gel. For driftwood and rock, tie or glue directly. For carpet applications, pin moss to stainless steel mesh with cable ties, then weight the mesh to the substrate. The mesh disappears under growth within 4–6 weeks.
Temperature sensitivity. Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri) grows well from 18–30°C and tolerates most water parameters. Christmas Moss (Vesicularia montagnei) prefers 22–26°C and produces its distinctive fern-like branching only in cooler conditions. Riccia fluitans grows freely but detaches easily from hardscape and needs frequent trimming to prevent floating masses.
Trimming promotes density. Trim moss with scissors 1–2 cm above the attachment surface every 3–4 weeks. This removes old growth that would otherwise shade new growth from below. Regular trimming is the difference between a lush, dense moss wall and a stringy one.
Lighting — The Engine of Growth
Light drives photosynthesis, determines which plants thrive, and is the primary cause of algae when mismanaged.
PAR — Photosynthetically Active Radiation
The true measure of usable light for plants
Low light: 15–30 µmol/m²/s at substrate. Anubias, Java Fern, Crypts, and most mosses. No CO₂ required. Algae risk is low.
Many beginners succeed here without effort.
Medium light: 30–60 µmol/m²/s. Stems, Vallisneria, Bucephalandra. Liquid carbon or pressurised CO₂ recommended.
The most versatile range. Works for 80% of commonly sold aquatic plants.
High light: 60–120+ µmol/m²/s. HC Cuba, Glossostigma, Riccia. Requires pressurised CO₂ and consistent nutrient dosing. Algae outbreaks are common if CO₂ or nutrients are inconsistent.
Photoperiod & Spectrum
Duration and colour quality are separate variables
6–8 hours total is enough. More hours of poor-quality light causes more algae than fewer hours of high-quality light. Duration beyond 10 hours provides diminishing returns and exponentially increases algae risk.
Use a programmable timer. Plants need consistency — random photoperiods disrupt growth cycles.
Kelvin rating and spectrum: 6500K produces the blue-white daylight spectrum that drives vegetative growth. 3000–4000K produces warm light that enhances red pigmentation in Rotala, Ludwigia, and Alternanthera. A mixed-spectrum fixture (5000–6500K with red boost) produces both growth and colour.
LED fixtures with adjustable spectrum (separate RGB channels) allow you to tune growth vs colour emphasis independently.
Siesta period: Running lights 4 hours on, 1–2 hours off (siesta), then 4 hours on reduces algae by interrupting algae's photosynthetic cycle while plants recover within minutes. A practical technique for tanks fighting persistent algae outbreaks.
Algae Diagnosis — Root Cause First
Algae treatments suppress symptoms. Fixing the underlying imbalance eliminates algae permanently. Every algae type points to a specific system failure.
Green Spot Algae (GSA)
Nutrient gap
Hard green spots on glass and slow-growing plant leaves. Circular, 1–3 mm diameter. Difficult to remove — needs a blade.
Root cause: Low phosphate in the water column (below 0.5 ppm) combined with adequate light. Plants consuming all available phosphate faster than you dose it.
Black Beard Algae (BBA)
CO₂ instability
Dense tufts of dark grey-black or red-black filaments on plant edges, driftwood, and hardscape. Very tough. Strong sulphur smell when removed dry.
Root cause: CO₂ fluctuation, not deficiency. BBA exploits the window when CO₂ drops (flow stops, CO₂ off, filter cleaned). Fix the CO₂ system consistency before any spot treatment.
Hair Algae / Thread Algae
System imbalance
Long green or brown filaments tangling around plants, substrate, and equipment. Can engulf and kill plants within weeks if not addressed.
Root cause: High light with insufficient CO₂ or nutrients creates an imbalance window algae exploits. Also common during the cycling phase before plants are fully established. Increase CO₂, reduce photoperiod by 1 hour, and add fast-growing floating plants to compete.
Green Dust Algae (GDA)
Immature system
Fine green powder coating the glass, easily wiped off but returns within 2–3 days. Rarely affects plants directly.
Root cause: New tank syndrome. Immature bacterial colonies and unstable water chemistry allow green dust spores to colonise glass quickly. Do not wipe it repeatedly — let it complete its lifecycle (3–4 weeks), then do a large water change. It typically resolves as the tank matures.
Cyanobacteria (Blue-Green)
Low flow / low nitrate
Slimy, smelly film — blue-green, dark green, or reddish-purple. Forms sheets over substrate and plant tops. Not true algae — it is a photosynthetic bacteria.
Root cause: Low nitrate (below 5 ppm) combined with low surface flow in a specific zone. Cyanobacteria fix atmospheric nitrogen and outcompete other algae when the nitrate-to-phosphate ratio is skewed. Increase nitrate dosing, direct a powerhead at the affected area, and physically remove sheets before treatment.
Brown Diatoms
New tank — resolves
Brown or rust-coloured dusty film on all surfaces. Common in new tanks and low-light setups. Easily wiped off.
Root cause: Elevated silicates and low light in new setups. Diatoms are first-colonisers — they appear and then disappear naturally as the tank matures and silicate levels drop. Otocinclus catfish consume diatoms efficiently and are excellent during this phase. Do not over-treat.
Treatment hierarchy. (1) Fix the root cause first. (2) Manual removal. (3) Biological controls (algae-eating livestock). (4) Spot treatment as a last resort. Algaecides wipe beneficial bacteria from your filter media and create a cycle of worse outbreaks. Treat the system, not the symptom.
Ongoing Plant Wellness
A weekly rhythm beats sporadic care. Plants respond to consistency, not intensity.
Quick daily observations take 2 minutes and catch problems in 24 hours, not 2 weeks.
- Check drop checker colour. Lime-green is target. If yellow, reduce CO₂ immediately and check livestock behaviour. If blue, increase bubble rate.
- Observe livestock. Fish and shrimp gasping at the surface is your earliest warning of CO₂ overdose, low oxygen, or ammonia spike.
- Check flow outlets and filter inlets. Blocked inlets reduce turnover and create dead spots — the first zones where algae colonises.
- Look at new leaf growth. New growth on your fastest-growing plants tells you whether the system is in balance. Pale, translucent new leaves mean nutrient deficiency. Dark, crisp new leaves mean good uptake.
- Remove any dead or dying leaves. One decaying leaf in a small tank raises ammonia enough to stress Neocaridina shrimp. Remove before it softens completely.
Weekly maintenance determines whether your tank runs clean or runs away from you.
- 25% water change. Use a gravel vacuum to remove detritus from the substrate surface while draining. Detritus accumulation in substrate creates anaerobic pockets that produce hydrogen sulphide — lethal to shrimp and root systems.
- Test water parameters. pH, ammonia, nitrate. KH and GH monthly. This is your data — without it, you are guessing at problems. A $30 liquid test kit is more accurate than strips and lasts 12+ months.
- Dose fertilisers on a schedule. Pick a day and dose consistently. Micros and macros on alternating days if using separate formulations. Never dose both on the same day — some compounds bind and precipitate out of solution.
- Trim fast-growing plants before they shade slower plants. Shade stress on foreground and midground plants appears as elongated, pale growth reaching for light (etiolation). Once etiolated, stems do not revert — trim back to compact growth below the pale section.
- Wipe glass on one side only. Wipe one pane per week in rotation rather than all at once. Beneficial bacteria and microorganisms colonise the glass surface and are a food source for shrimp and small fish.
Monthly maintenance prevents the slow drift toward system decline.
- Clean filter media in tank water, not tap water. Tap water chlorine kills the bacterial colonies in your filter media. Squeeze sponges and rinse ceramic media in a bucket of water you've drained from the tank during your water change.
- Check and replace root tabs. Root tabs have a 3–4 month lifespan. Check the root zone of heavy feeders for yellowing or stunted growth that signals depleted substrate nutrition.
- Inspect CO₂ equipment. Check the regulator pressure gauge, diffuser membrane for calcite buildup, and airline tubing for micro-cracks. A failing CO₂ system causes BBA outbreaks before you notice the CO₂ drop visually.
- Replant uprooted specimens. Over a month, active fish, substrate stirring shrimp, and plant growth push some plants loose. A monthly replanting pass prevents the cascading effect of free-floating plants decaying on the substrate.
- Remove algae-covered leaves. Leaves colonised by BBA or GSA will not recover. Removing them eliminates the algae's base and gives the plant clean growth to replace that leaf naturally.
Seasonal changes affect your tank even if you do not think they should.
- Temperature fluctuations in summer: Tanks above 29°C for extended periods push plants into heat stress — growth slows, leaves become translucent and soft. Shrimp are more vulnerable still. Add a clip-on fan directed at the water surface or a chiller for dedicated shrimp systems.
- Tap water chemistry changes seasonally. Many Australian water utilities adjust pH, chloramine levels, and mineral content seasonally due to reservoir conditions. Test your source water in January and July — you may be adjusting your tank chemistry based on old data.
- Light intensity changes through seasons. If your tank is near a window, ambient sunlight entering the room changes the effective PAR your plants receive. Summer sun through a window combined with a full-power LED is a recipe for overnight algae blooms.
- Plant growth rate slows in winter. Lower ambient temperatures, even with a heater, mean the tank cycles through more temperature variation between day and night. Reduce fertiliser dosing by 20–30% in winter to match the lower uptake rate and avoid nutrient accumulation.